The curious presence of blue crabs in the James delights. The creatures are fun to watch, even to those of us who like them cooked, cracked, and dressed in cocktail sauce (with double horseradish, please).

Baltimore can relax, however; Richmond does not appear on the verge of challenging its status as Crab City.

It also seems strange that the crabs have migrated upstream even as crab stocks in the Chesapeake remain under strain. Other recent news regarding the seafood reports a welcome revival of the region's oceanic scallop beds.

The Bay's oyster populations have endured stress for many years, as is well known. The Chesapeake is not alone. The New York Times reports that oyster farmers in France dumped about 12 tons of oyster shells in front of a government office in Bordeaux to dramatize their demands for additional state aid during a shellfish crisis. An outbreak of the herpes virus has savaged oysters aged 12-18 months. We're not taking this one any further.

The French have a fondness for oysters, which is shared by visiting Americans. Our chez amis generally take the delicacies straight -- i.e., without sauce -- although they occasionally splash them in vinegar. Don't forget the bread and real butter. French oysters are far stronger than most North American breeds. Several French varieties taste like battleships. Many are reasons the French drink wine.

And while the Chesapeake's beleagured watermen welcome support for the preservation of a cherished way of life, they have not lobbied with the vehemence of their Gallic counterparts. How would Virginia respond if oyster farmers dumped several tons of shells on the steps of Jefferson's Capitol?