WILLIAMSBURG TODAY Quality of life There's more to the city's present than its well-known past. It's still a place where three-cornered hats are in style, and fife and drum parades are common.   HISTORY City rose, fell and rose again Old capital saw long period of quiet between Colonial glory, restoration.   TOURISM: ECONOMIC ENGINE Visitors take in American history - and more Travel spending has risen as tourists hit historic and very modern attractions.   GOLF Major resorts offer first-rate courses Golf in Williamsburg begins with the three major resorts: the Golden Horseshoe Golf Club, Kingsmill Resort on the James and Ford's Colony.   LOCAL BUSINESS Retail, hospitality are pillars Williamsburg official says city has highest retail sales per capita in state.   RETAIL SCENE Varied choices for shoppers Outlet stores and other retailers are growing in region. If you haven't spent much time shopping around Williamsburg recently, be prepared for some surprises.   DINING Culinary styles span eras Not far from Colonial taverns, barbecue places and stylish eateries thrive. When your stomach growls hereabouts, choices range from 18th-century-style dishes to imaginative creations by the region's star chefs.   TIME CAPSULES Famous architect rattled cages by criticizing Colonial Williamsburg America's most famous architect sent shock waves through Virginia in 1938 when he condemned the restoration of Colonial Williamsburg.   POTTERY FACTORY A ramshackle, revered retail spot The main buildings look like warehouses or factories, and they often have highway trailers parked beside them.   COLLEGE HISTORY William and Mary proved to be resilient Williamsburg's reputation as a Democratic stronghold makes it stand out in a state that has not voted blue in a presidential election in four decades.   ARTS SCENE Creativity finds a stage - and streets and galleries College and historic area anchor array of festivals, concerts and exhibits   LIFESTYLES Area is a popular spot for retirement Location, amenities lure older adults; that leads to residential, retail growth.   REGIONAL LAND USE Development is a balancing act in the region Real estate projects help expand commercial base in a well-situated corridor.   IN YOUR SPARE TIME Recreation on the land and the water Looking for a relaxing pursuit? You might want to start in the library.