Cook's dishes out another 'Bests' book How can a brand-new book possibly be regarded as one of the definitive volumes on cooking chicken?

When it's published by Cook's Illustrated, that's how.

Cook's Illustrated magazine, which accepts no advertising, has a special place in the hearts of its million subscribers. Except for the cover, the magazine's 32 pages are printed in black and white, on off-white paper. It takes a near-fanatical approach to cooking techniques, using detailed drawings for each step.

And that describes the magazine's new book, "The Best Chicken Recipes," as well. The details in each recipe, and the techniques used, are extraordinary.

The editors wisely noted that a book of nothing but chicken recipes would be a tough sell, so there's plenty of other material. There's an extensive taste-test of olive oils. You'll learn how to peel fruit, butterfly a game hen and prepare a grill. You'll learn how to roll a burrito and who makes the best slow cooker. You'll learn why dry vermouth is usually inexpensive.

Two beautifully illustrated pages are devoted to the basics of cooking pasta. You'll learn who makes the best dried pasta and when to add olive oil to the mix.

Needless to say, with more than 400 pages, there are also a lot of chicken recipes.

The chapter on "beer can chicken," in which a chicken "sits" on an open can of beer on the grill, shows the book's attention to technique. The Cook's Illustrated chefs first cooked the chicken on a beer can, then on a can of soda, then on a can filled with wine and finally on a can of lemonade. They decided that beer or lemonade, with crumpled bay leaves added to the liquid, is the best choice. Good to know!

I've been cooking beer can chickens for about six years, and it's obvious from reading their tests that I've been doing it only about half-right. Hint: Poke holes liberally in the skin before you cook the chicken.

The book marks the 16th in a series of "Best" books produced by the magazine. The others include "The Best Vegetable Recipes," "The Best American Classics" and "The Best Soups and Stews."

With chicken such an integral part of American cooking, it's a wonder they waited 16 books to get around to one on chicken.
Contact Lee Barnes at (804) 775-8129 or lbarnes@timesdispatch.com.

Want to review a cookbook? Contact Jann Malone at (804) 649-6820 or write JMalone@timesdispatch.com