SLIDESHOW

Few words in the English language inspire such fear as "spicy."

From in-laws to uncles, I've heard it all -- "Is that spicy? Oh, well, I just, um, I just don't do spicy."

Why not? "Spicy" takes eating beyond basic survival. It's the reason we were given a sense of taste in the first place.

Cowering behind mild salsa is a disservice to the acuity of the taste bud. I can only assume widespread spice xenophobia developed from misconceptions about what "spicy" actually means.

Spiciness should stir up depth of flavor and complex subtleties, not assault your mouth with such force that tasting anything but throbbing pain for the next three days is impossible.

For those who fear, I suggest Caliente -- a fun-loving little spot known for its Cajun, Caribbean, Southern and Pacific Rim-inspired dishes. Here, owners Dave and Courtney Bender will guide you through the vast range of flavors between "spicy" and ferocious.

Yes, Caliente is known for its Stupid Hot Wings ($10), self-proclaimed hottest around, but what about mussels ($8) steamed in lemon grass and green curry, or grilled rib-eye ($19) with ancho-espresso sauce?

These -- along with killer weekly specials, such as jerk ribs -- offer more than enough evidence that there's more to "spicy" than pain.

A warm Friday found our party of four at a wrought-iron table on the tiny patio -- the Museum District's only one -- surrounded by strings of colorful lights and front-row seats to the unique parade of neighborhood characters.

Other than liquid heat -- be sure to check out the hot sauce wall -- Caliente has a strong list of libations, including specialty beers and noteworthy wines ($19 to $63 a bottle), such as Barboursville Octagon ($48).

We started with stuffed jalapeños and Buffalo Gator Bites (both $7.50). Forget mushy, faux cheese-filled poppers. These delicately flash-fried babies snapped, unleashing a gooey lava of cheese, roasted red peppers and whole corn.

Don't give me "Alligator? I'm not eating that!" until you try it. These meaty lil' bites tasted like, yes, chicken (only chewier) bathed in a tasty sauce equal parts sweet, tangy and peppery.

Caliente's specials are surefire bets because they don't stray too far from the expectations set by the rest of the menu.

Garlic Lover's Flat Iron Steak ($19) was aptly named. A deliciously potent roasted garlic cream sauce so slathered the juicy medium-rare cut it looked like melted cheese.

Beer Butt Chicken ($14), another special, was fall-off-the-bone tender and sticky with smoky barbecue glaze. The sauce oozed into the bed of salt-and-pepper-coated fries, creating a zesty combo worthy of finger-, fork- and plate-licking.

The coconut shrimp ($16) weren't jumbo or served with mango salsa as advertised, but orange-chipotle vinaigrette gave the delicate breading a swift kick of pizazz. Tangy braised greens added a side of buttery goodness.

The only letdown was my Cuban red snapper special ($18). It was so overcooked the topping of sugar-cane slices and rum sauce couldn't refocus my attention.

No restaurant is perfect, but a lot can be said for how it handles mistakes. When I didn't want a box, our server asked if everything was OK. When she called out my hesitation, I confessed.

The mere mention of "overcooked" sent her in search of a glass of wine on the house and back to the kitchen to announce the snafu, hopefully subverting future peril at other diners' tables.

As the moon emerged, homemade piña colada bread pudding ($4.95) called, and we listened. Mountains of shaved coconut topped butter-soaked bread were surrounded by a coconut-rum hard sauce so potent a driver really should be designated.

Caliente's menu can pack some heat, but like its servers, spiciness is balanced with just enough sweet. Add in a cozy patio and fun-loving atmosphere, and I predict Caliente's gonna sizzle for a while.

Contact Dana Craig at dcraig@timesdispatch.com.

• Rating:
  Where: 2922 Park Ave.
  Phone: (804) 340-2920
  Web site: www.calienterichmond.com
  Smoking: Smoking allowed at bar and on outdoor patio; smoking allowed throughout restaurant beginning at 10 p.m.
  Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Friday; 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Saturday; Sunday brunch coming soon
  Entree prices: $5.50-$20
  Check for two: $94 (two appetizers, two entrees, shared dessert, alcohol, tax and gratuity)