DEAR ACCIDENTAL CHEF: I simply love those fresh spring rolls that you find at the sushi counter in the Ukrop's grocery store and in the Vietnamese restaurants -- the ones with the soft, clear wrapping (not the fried ones). What are they made of, and can I make them at home? They seem perfect for a hot summer day. -- Roly Poly in Richmond

DEAR ROLY: You are spot on with this question. These deliciously light rolls, otherwise known as rice paper rolls or summer rolls, are the perfect accompaniment to a chilled glass of white wine and a warm July evening. They're often filled with an array of fresh ingredients such as rice noodles, fresh herbs, cooked shrimp, lettuce or avocado. There's no doubt that these tasty rolls really hit the spot on a hot summer day.

While some of the ingredients (especially its foundation ingredient, rice paper) may seem foreign to some, fresh spring rolls are really quite easy to make. All it takes is a short trip to the local Asian market to pick up a pack of rice papers, and off you can go to stuff and roll to your heart's content.

Rice paper, which is a wafer-thin, translucent edible paper usually made from rice flour (or tapioca flour) and water, is a staple in Southeast Asian cooking, especially Vietnamese food. Known as banh trang in Vietnam, these tortilla-sized crepes are often served as an appetizer filled with rice noodles, Thai basil, mint, cilantro, lettuce and cooked shrimp, and are served with a tangy peanut-based dipping sauce. Additionally, you might find a stack of these softened papers next to a grilled platter of beef, pork, chicken or shrimp along with an array of fresh herbs, noodles, cucumbers, etc., from which the diner can choose ingredients to make his or her own unique roll.

Rice paper is made in a crepe-style steam press, where it is both flattened to its paper-thin status and cooked. From there, it is removed to a rack to cool and is then air-dried in the sun for about 24 hours before packaging. When purchasing rice paper, look for ones that are about 8 inches round. Anything smaller is tough to work with unless you are already an expert.

To soften the paper, simply fill a shallow dish with a little lukewarm water. Avoid using hot water because this tends to make the paper starchy and gummy. Gently slide the rice paper (only make one at a time) into the water. Once it begins to soften, remove the paper to a flat surface (it will continue to soften) and have your ingredients ready for rolling. Don't leave your rice papers in the water too long or they will break and tear. However, if this happens, don't worry. Just grab another one and try again. Even the best rollers (including me) have had their share of rips and tears.

Another bit of advice is to have all of your fillings ready to go before softening your rice papers. You have a short window of time to roll before the rice paper begins to harden or fall apart. Have all of your cooked ingredients fully prepared, your vegetables sliced and diced and your fresh herbs washed and ready.

To roll, layer your filling (don't overstuff) toward the top middle part of the roll. Then bring the lower bottom flap up. Then, fold one side over like a burrito and then do the same with the other side. This will leave the top part of the roll open, which is a traditional rolling method. Keep your finished rice papers under plastic wrap until ready to serve and avoid leaving them in the fridge for an extended period of time as this will make the exterior harden.

The fillings are up to you. You can make them veggie style, with sliced avocado, julienned carrots and cucumbers; go high end with lobster or crabmeat and sliced mangoes; or keep them traditional with rice noodles and fresh herbs.

Don't worry if your spring rolls aren't as pretty as the ones you find in Vietnamese restaurants. And remember, practice makes perfect. Serve your rolls with purchased spring roll sauce or peanut sauce for dipping and create a light and healthy start to any summer meal.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to info@theaccidentalchef.net or visit www.theaccidentalchef.net.