Tangier Island is reachable by one of three daily ferries (from Reedville on the Virginia mainland, or "western shore" as islanders refer to it), Onancock on the Eastern Shore and Crisfield, Md. The island also has an airstrip for small planes.

From Richmond, take a two-hour drive on U.S. 360 to Reedville. Stop at Buzzard's Point Marina and catch the Chesapeake Breeze passenger ferry (www.tangiercruise.com or 804-453-2628). It departs every day May-October at 10 a.m. and returns at 3:30 p.m. Round trip is $25 for adults, $13 for children. The trip across the bay is 90 minutes each way.

Dining options on the island include Hilda Crockett's Chesapeake House (757-891-2331), where the crab cakes, clam fritters and corn pudding are served family style. The Fisherman's Corner (757-891-2900) features crab bisque, soft-shell crabs and, of course, crab cakes, as well as other fresh seafood dishes. Its Apple Pan Dowdy dessert, featuring apples, ice cream and caramel, is dangerously good. Or stop by the watermen's hangout, the Double Six, and order a grilled-cheese sandwich.

Want to stay the night? You might consider one of the island's three bed-and-breakfasts: Bay View Inn (757-891-2396), Hilda Crockett's Chesapeake House (757-891-2331) or Sunset Inn (757-891-2535).

Bicycles and golf carts, the primary modes of transportation on the island, are available for rent at the main dock, where guided tours also are available. For details, visit www.tangierisland-va.com, or check out a new Web site to find out more and set up a tour with a waterman: www.gotangierisland.com.

--Bill Lohmann