Infidelity has never been socially acceptable, but the time has come for re-evaluating our moral compass in the culinary sense, of course.

We've been religiously faithful to one particular lady for years -- willing to stand outside in the rain and the cold, endure obscene waits with nowhere to sit, just for a taste of her eclectic, haute diner fare.

As a result, Millie's has become one of Richmond's most iconic eateries, racking up a list of admirers including Gourmet magazine, Southern Living and The New York Times.

So, what are we supposed to do when her hot little sister rolls into town?

The latest brainchild of Millie's owner, Paul Keevil, and longtime chef, Steve Jurina (mastermind behind Millie's famous brunch menu), LuLu's works the nonpareil sauciness of its older sibling but sports lower prices, airier digs and gussied-up comfort food.

When LuLu's opened in late October, a delayed liquor license kept crowds thin; but three months later, throngs of diners are shunning longtime loves for shamelessly gluttonous trysts with LuLu.

Even those in the biz are being unfaithful. On any given night, LuLu's quirky concrete bar is lined with well-known, local restaurateurs, sipping vino from LuLu's oh-so-reasonably priced wine list (most bottles are less than $30).

During my recent Friday dinner, the seductive aroma of garlic wafting over the metal baker's rack between the open kitchen and industrial-meets-sleek dining room readied my palate for hedonism.

Jurina's small but action-packed menu enlivens familiar favorites with unexpected splashes of global and gourmet pizazz -- grilled salmon in black bean coconut broth ($17) and High-Falootin' Mac and Cheese with grilled shrimp ($17), for example.

After we inhaled oddly alluring tortilla-chip-laced corn bread, my passion for LuLu's escalated as our starters arrived -- lobster and crab fritters ($9) and Thai coconut chicken soup ($4).

The fritters' sly spiciness intensified as we marveled at the succulent morsels of shellfish cradled within the plush interiors of these golden brown gifts. Soothing mango dipping sauce came to a tantalizing rescue.

Served in a handled mug for easy slurping, the soup was a festive soiree of East meets West as sweet coconut and curry-spiked broth mingled amicably with shredded chicken, diced celery and onion.

LuLu's entrees solidified our infidel status. After indulging in pan-seared tilapia ($15) and a grilled pork chop ($17), I realized my usual dining haunts are going to feel jilted for a while.

A rich bath of crayfish-studded beurre blanc and textured cornmeal crust elevated what I normally think of as a lowly fish to a grandiose seafood affair. Served atop a savory cake of tender corn kernels seared to a golden brown, it was forget-your-cholesterol-intake bliss.

The wonderfully juicy, 2-inch-thick pork chop was served with dried cherry chutney, a pungent-meets-fiery mix of exotic spices and tantalizing aromatics. It was paired with earthy butternut squash purée, a deft balance of a carnival of flavors.

Could our meal get any better? Why, yes -- LuLu's desserts (all $5) are made in-house. I'm pretty picky about peanut butter pie, usually more disappointed than thrilled. Lulu's deep-dish version, however, did me oh-so-right.

Dense peanut butter was encased in a deep, dark chocolate shell and crumbly cookie crust and topped with chocolate sauce and powdered sugar. Its thick-as-glue goodness inhibited my ability to scream, "Oh . . . my . . . lord."

The pumpkin roll was even better. Thick and moist as fudge yet redolent of pumpkin pie's signature heady spices, it was filled with sweetened cream cheese and drizzled in a buttery caramel sauce. Again, "Oh . . . my . . . "

Service at LuLu's is laid-back but coolly efficient. Only seconds passed between last sips and Legend Brown Ale refills. Our waitress was genuinely excited about the place -- "My husband loves the beef stroganoff, and Ben, the other server, can't live without his nightly tandoori chicken." The bartender stopped mid-pour to say goodbye.

I'm not one to condone infidelity, especially when we're talking loyalty to tried-and-true restaurants, but LuLu's has me spellbound. I never thought cheating could feel so good. dcraig@timesdispatch.com.