SLIDESHOW: More photos of Patrick Henry's

If I didn't know better, I might actually believe some huge, oppressive dome existed over the Church Hill area, staunchly deflecting the restaurant gods' gifts of new, local eateries to any part of town but here.

Just look at nearby Shockoe Bottom, currently packing the Farmers' Market area with everything from haute diner fare to Ethiopian eats. Vacant spaces in Carytown and the Fan District reopen with new identities before you can say, "Check please."

Not so much with Church Hill. Other than The Hill Café, Acappella was one of the few somewhat-established restaurants, but even it closed last winter.

Fast-forward to this summer, and Acappella's historic building with its wildly popular underground pub has been reborn as Patrick Henry's Pub & Grill.

After my Friday dinner with a friend who lives in the area, I can safely say Patrick Henry's is just what the doctor ordered for restaurant-hungry Church Hill residents.

Owner Eric Warner, a former Acappella regular, has created a prim-meets-cozy space that nods to the building's history yet oozes laid-back-ness from every nook and cranny. Whether you want to grab a pint and a smoke or dig into a ridiculously affordable plate of eggplant Parm (sans smoke), Patrick Henry's got you covered.

I was dismayed to find the building's much-loved outdoor patio under renovation during my visit, but this quaint hideaway should be open and ready for lounging by the time you read this.

Patrick Henry's chef, Nicolai Creatore, whose résumé includes Millie's and Kitchen 64, has created a menu best described as stuff your mom would make, only with a little more flair.

Crostini ($5.25-$6.25) is topped with everything from kale and artichoke to Italian sausage to green olive tapenade and Asiago. The popular grilled New York strip ($18.95) is served with seared potato gnocchi and Pernod-flashed kale.

The wine list ($19-$35) is small but covers the basics. Draft beer includes Bitburger and Brooklyn Brown Ale.

My friend and I grabbed a table upstairs, where wooden, round-back chairs and stately street-front windows make the dining room feel like someone's grandmother's house -- well, someone's grandmother who has an affinity for garlic.

With our noses twitching in anticipation, we started with calamari ($7.75) and mini calzones ($6.95). Served with thick-sliced grilled crostini, the calamari was sautéed, rather than fried, and seasoned with a refreshingly dynamic mix of basil, mint and shallots. A roasted garlic and white wine reduction gelled the flavors into a bread-sopping good time.

The calzones were savory pastries, their flaky shells more like piecrust than pizza dough. Inside, piping hot mozzarella mingled with fresh herbs while a drizzle of balsamic vinegar along with balsamic-marinated tomatoes added a tangy tingle to each bite.

Main courses range from a meatball parmigiana sub ($7.95) to linguini and clams ($16.95). After seeing four different orders of chicken parmigiana ($14.95) come from the kitchen, we had to indulge.

Pounded oh-so-thin, three large chicken breasts sported a crunchy, yet a bit-too-highly seasoned, breading. Slightly sweet, house-made marinara and Parmesan and provolone cheeses delicately covered the chicken, keeping it magically moist without becoming soggy.

A side of "linguini aglio e olio" (linguini with garlic and olive oil) was studded with pine nuts, making for a simple yet appropriately subdued partner.

We also tried shrimp and eggplant ($16.95), expertly sautéed and served over penne and ceci beans (similar to chickpeas or garbanzo beans) in a light, slight sweet broth. At first I thought the combo of beans and pasta would be too much, but the penne gave the dish texture to offset the eggplant's softness.

We were too full for dessert gasp, I know -- but I hope to return and try the tiramisu.

Patrick Henry's Pub & Grill isn't trying to reinvent the culinary wheel, but its simple yet skillful menu of Italian with a twist and cozy basement pub are the perfect fit for Church Hill's uniquely laid-back vibe.