While walking past a group of firefighters trickling out of Halligan Bar & Grill on a recent Friday evening, I was suddenly taken by a wonderful aroma clinging to the air around the Farmers' Market.

The closer I got to Alex's Thai Cuisine, a recent contributor to the new restaurant boom hitting Shockoe Bottom, I realized the tantalizing smell was coming from the very door through which I was about to enter.

Hmmm, garlic and ginger? Yes, of course, but there was something else.

As soon as I passed beneath the restaurant's red-and-white-striped awning, it hit me. Chilies.

Within seconds of grabbing a booth, my nose started twitching as I attempted to hold back the sneezing fit that inevitably overtakes me when confronted with a thick stir-fry cloud of spicy goodness.

Alex's is tiny, so the open kitchen right beside the front door dominates the space not only in sheer square footage, but also in filling the dining area with a dense haze of sizzle.

Depending on your feelings toward spiciness, Alex's sinus-tickling aroma is something to consider when choosing between dining in or taking out. The latter seemed to be more popular during my visit.

Alex's is family-owned and operated -- there were only two people running the entire operation when I was there. As a result, service may be slow or perhaps not as attentive as you'd like, but your made-to-order meal will arrive piping hot and cooked with care.

This also means your meal will be served when it's ready, not necessarily at the same time as the others at your table or even before the people who came in well after you, as happened during my visit.

However, after a taste of the fare, I really didn't mind. In fact, I felt like I had unexpectedly dropped in on this family's home, and it just so happened they were nice enough to whipup a fresh batch of green curry ($8.45-$10.95) just for me.

Seeing how busy they were with only four tables, I felt like I should have offered my dishwashing skills to help out as we waited for appetizers.

If you've had rocket shrimp at a Vietnamese restaurant -- rice paper wrapped around the top of shrimp and fried -- our shrimp crispy rolls ($4.95) were very similar, only boasting the tasty addition of ground black pepper inside to contrast nicely with accompanying sweet and sour sauce.

The highlight of chicken satay ($4.95) was its accompanying peanut sauce. Dark brown and robustly earthy, it was much better than some of the "could be peanut butter" versions I've had elsewhere.

Alex's entrees are standard Thai fare: curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes served with a choice of chicken, beef or pork (most $8.45) or shrimp or seafood (most $10.95). Vegetarian options run $7.95.

I appreciated Alex's menu designating each dish's spice level rather than encouraging a free-for-all of mild, medium and hot customization. With authentic Thai food, some dishes are meant to be spicy, and some are not. However, the menu notes they can adjust the spice level if specifically requested.

Green curry chicken was top-notch -- a delicate balance of sweet coconut broth and just the right amount of spiciness accented with carrots, string beans, bell peppers and aromatic basil leaves.

Pork pad see-ew, on the other hand, was disappointing. Yes, there were plenty of wide rice noodles, but little pork, broccoli or egg. The dark soy-based garlic sauce was syrupy sweet, resulting in a plate of gooey noodles and cloying aftertaste.

Ginger sauce beef featured black Chinese mushrooms, onions and scallions mingling in a sauce alive with ginger's signature peppery bite yet tempered by salty and savory undertones.

We did experience a bit of a language barrier, but Alex's staff couldn't be friendlier. In fact, several passersby waved at the chef as she cooked in the front window.

Alex's is a great addition to the already expanding food choices in the Bottom. It might not be worth a lengthy trip from across town, but I know the neighborhood is happy.