It's hard to believe, but Millie's has been around for 19 years. That's 133 in dog years.

That qualifies the funky, bohemian and ever-so-slightly upscale diner as an institution. It's been a success since the day it opened, even though it is convenient to practically no one.

What keeps the crowds coming back for more is consistency: good food, served well.

At lunch, the crowd is artists and businessmen, which is indicative of the cozy joint's unique appeal (dinner prices are considerably higher, which excludes most artists.) They come for the sandwiches, the specials and -- if they're like me, and lunch is the first meal of the day -- for the eggs.

I've been a little disappointed in the huevos rancheros there -- it's more about the huevos than the ranchero, and the black beans are an unwelcome distraction -- so I opted for the veggie mess ($8.95).

This vegetarian version of the sausage-laced devil's mess combines sautéed vegetables (carrots, zucchini, onions, green peppers and tomatoes) in an open-faced omelet prepared with curry powder. Curry and eggs are a classic combination -- it's mentioned in "The Joy of Cooking" -- but you rarely see it at restaurants.

The omelets -- they also make them with avocado, tomato and cheddar ($8.50) or mushroom, tomato and cheddar ($7.95) -- come with peppery home fries and a smudge of fiery, garlicky Sriracha sauce. If you ask, you'll also get a couple of slices of deliciously chewy whole-grain toast.

The same great bread is used for many sandwiches, including grilled eggplant, tomato and brie ($6.95) and the BLT (a budget-minded $6.25). Also available is the BLT with avocado ($7.25), which I have never had but which they ought to call the BLAT. Just a thought.

Part of the Millie's charm is the vibe, the far-from-antiseptic rugged appeal of the place. Wooden floors, wooden booths, wooden walls (one of which is covered with money from other countries), a sign reading "Smokers will be pummeled with punishing blows all over their bodies" and a giant poster for the 1927 German Expressionist masterpiece "Metropolis."

And don't miss the most blissfully eclectic jukebox in town, featuring everything from the Meat Puppets and Jah Wobble to Art Blakey and Sophia Loren singing "Bing Bang Bong" from the movie "Houseboat."

It's impressive, that jukebox. Which is why it fits in so well with the food.