We all know that unbelievably catchy tune, "Watch it wiggle, see it jiggle." Throw in Bill Cosby with his wide-eyed I-just-ate-a-little-spoonful-of-heaven expression, a few exceptionally well-coifed children at the kitchen table, and you've got yourself a quintessential made-for-television Jell-O moment.

There is no doubt that Jell-O is the stuff childhoods are made of. Kids love Jell-O because it's a pure injection of sugar. Moms love Jell-O because it's inexpensive and easy to make. Adults love Jell-O. Wait. Do adults love Jell-O?

It seems the mere mention of the word Jell-O conjures up images of a fluorescent green blob sliding around on a chipped dessert plate in a hospital cafeteria. However, for many of us (especially us Southerners), having a side of gelatin salad (aka Jell-O) is nothing short of a great addition to an already fantastic home-cooked meal. There's much more to this sugary treat than just red dye.

I grew up at a dinner table continually filled with mouth-watering Southern delicacies. On any given evening, you could find an array of sides dishes - a pot of green beans cooked in fatback, homemade potato rolls, a crock of creamy, mashed potatoes. Next to all of these goodies would be an 8-by-8 glass baking dish of Jell-O salad. Yes, I did say the word "salad" and "Jell-O" in the same sentence. While these two words seem about as far apart as any two can be, the fact is, Jell-O salad is a deliciously sweet and savory addition to any weeknight dinner.

Jell-O certainly has its place in history in as well. Originally patented in 1845 by inventor and philanthropist Peter Cooper, gelatin desserts quickly rose to popularity because of their ease of preparation and cost. By the 1930s, there was much more to Jell-O than just dessert. Gelled or congealed salads which served as savory appetizers and side dishes became commonplace at the dinner table.

There wasn't a dinner in my granny's house in West Virginia that didn't feature at least one Jell-O salad as part of the meal. One of her favorites to make was a strawberry pretzel salad with layers of strawberry gelatin, whipped cream and fresh strawberries piled high on a sugary crushed pretzel crust. While this amalgamation may seem a bit strange, let me tell you, this sweet, salty, lightly fruity combination is simply to die for.

One of the many great aspects of this and similar gelatin salads, is that they can serve as both a salad (or side dish) as well as dessert. Jell-O salads are simply perfect for potlucks or picnics as well since they can be made a day ahead and transport easily. (Get yourself a Pyrex insulated baking dish carrier to keep your salad at the right temperature when traveling.)

For even more fun, cool your Jell-O concoction in a fancy mold (think giant rooster shape or ring mold), and you'll steal the show when it comes to dramatic food presentation. There's nothing kitschier than a bright orange Jell-O ring mold with bits of suspended fruit inside.

Retro-fabulousness aside, many of the more complex gelatin salads, such as the one I've included today, can be quite the hit at your next gathering.

The Church Ladies Circle Salad is one such gem. This dish, which was a huge hit at Derbyshire Baptist, the church I grew up in, is an immaculate combination of pineapple, lemon Jell-O, whipping cream, crushed pecans and pimentos (trust me on the pimentos). Often served with salty crackers on the side, creating that balance of salty and sweet, this ?ber-rich gelatin treat will convert even the biggest Jell-O hater into a Bill Cosby grinning, sugar-loving, adult-sized kid.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to info@theaccidentalchef.net or visit www.theaccidentalchef.net.