Q:We have a sugar maple at least 50 years in age. It is massive and quite colorful in the fall. Unfortunately, the tree's canopy and shallow roots prevent any growth other than moss underneath, resulting in a muddy mess. Instead of once again attempting to grow a ground cover or grass, would pea gravel or river gravel be an appropriate mulch?

Answer: Sugar maples naturally grow surface roots. I must tell you I'm not a big fan of gravel mulch, unless you put landscape fabric down first. The fabric will allow moisture to get to the roots, but prevent the gravel from eventually getting worked into the muddy soil. The fabric makes a good barrier to keep the gravel separated from the soil.

My favorite ground cover under trees with surface roots is periwinkle. This low-growing ground cover will not climb the tree, but will run over the top of the tree roots. Not only will it hide the roots, but it will absorb some of the excess moisture and reduce the muddy mess you've experienced.

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Q:I have Blue Rug junipers planted on a down slope to a lake for ground cover. They are 7 years old and mature. This spring I noted about six Rugs had died.

 

Upon closer examination, I saw the stems had been cut by what looks like beaver. We have lost several trees to beaver foraging, but I never thought they would go after ground cover.

Would beaver bother Blue Rugs, and if so, are there any steps I can take to get rid of beavers?

Answer: My experience is that a beaver will go after practically anything with a woody stem.

About the only option I know is to fence the beaver out. Or better yet, fence the Blue Rugs in. Beaver don't tend to be afraid of any of the typical repellents we use to keep other wildlife away from landscape plants.

Of course, there are people who will trap them. You can contact the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries for more information on trapping.

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Q:As the weather gets warmer, I have a problem with insects the size of pinheads that get in around the windows. These windows are on the sunny side of the house.

 

I spray an ant killer inside and out on the windowsills, but it does not appear to affect them. When you mash them, they leave a dark stain that can be cleaned easily. Starting in the spring until the fall, I put an insect killer around the foundation of the house, but again it does not seem to have an effect on these critters.

There are no shrubs or trees on this side of the house. I have caulked the windows, but this does not stop the little bugs.

Answer: The critters you described are "clover mites." They live and feed in organic matter such as mulch or leaf mold. They move to the sunny side of the house to avoid wet soil or cold temperatures. These mites are so tiny, they can actually work their way under closed windows.

Mites are not technically insects, and many insecticides do not control them. You might ask your favorite garden center if it carries something specifically for mites. By the way, diatomaceous earth is recommended as an organic control for clover mites.

On the side of the house, you can just wash them off with your garden hose and a little pressure. These critters don't do much damage, but they can be quite a nuisance.

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Q:Do you fertilize bushes such as nandina and beauty bush? If so, what kind of fertilizer would you use? Is it OK to just feed them bone meal?

 

Answer: Actually, I don't fertilize bushes such as the ones you described unless they are having problems. My experience has been that if the plants are healthy and growing well, they will grow faster than you want them to without fertilizer.

If you really want to feed them with something, bone meal would be fine, as would blood meal. The combination of the two provides slow-release, organic sources of nitrogen and phosphorus.

You could also use a complete organic fertilizer, which would give them a little boost without stimulating excessive growth.
Send questions to Richard Nunnally in care of the Flair Department, Richmond Times-Dispatch, P.O. Box 85333, Richmond, VA 23293 or by e-mail to home@timesdispatch.com.