• SLIDESHOW: See more pictures of Halligan Bar & Grill

I can't imagine The Halligan Bar & Grill getting much cooler unless the doors were removed and potential diners were forced to slide down a fireman's pole to get in.

This new addition to the 17th Street Farmers' Market is jam-packed with enough authentic firefighter paraphernalia that even if your fireplace is the closest you've come to a blaze, you'll feel like a regular in no time.

A 1973 Seagrave fire engine with working lights and siren runs the length of Halligan's bar, its pump panel replaced by beer taps. The walls are painted to look charred, firefighter helmets form the shades for hanging lights and beneath the glass-top bar is a coiled fire hose.

Halligan not only honors the pride and camaraderie of "Central Virginia's most beloved public servants" but also offers anyone who walks through the door a fun-loving spot to kick back, talk smack and enjoy some darn good, rib-sticking eats.

The attention to detail found in Halligan's décor doesn't bypass its menu. Barbecue, burgers and wings aren't necessarily unique fare, but when the meat is smoked in-house, the fries are hand-cut and the entrees boast homemade, special-recipe barbecue sauce, these extra touches add up to something memorable.

As one would expect, Halligan serves Hook & Ladder beers on tap. Bottled beer, liquor and wine are also available. Just ask your Pump Operator (aka bartender) to hook you up with whatever libation you crave.

We arrived early on a Tuesday evening, but the 35-seat space was already packed. After chatting it up with a genuinely enthusiastic server, we commandeered one of the high, bar-style tables and perused the First Due (appetizer) section of the menu.

Everything looked good, so we persuaded our server to whip up an appetizer sampler platter consisting of Hard Sleeve Cheese (fried cheese straws, $6.95), Dalmatians (corn-dog nuggets, $5.95), New York Hooks (Italian meatballs, $6.95) and Chinese Fire Drill (mini eggrolls, $6.95).

Such a sampler isn't on the menu, but here's my vote for adding one. When the finger food is this tasty, being able to graze is a must.

Served with marinara, the long cheese straws reinvented typical mozzarella sticks by emphasizing the fried deliciousness factor and minimizing the potential for a cheesy mess. We inhaled the faintly sweet, golden brown corn-dog bites as if they were candy -- well, oddly satisfying hot-dog-flavored candy.

I can't describe the Hooks any better than the menu does -- "You know . . . those meatballs you pile on your plate at weddings -- yum!" Sweet'n'tangy sauce, nicely browned crust -- simply good.

The lowlight of our mock tasting menu was the Chinese Fire Drill. Served with spicy red-chili sauce, these mini eggrolls tasted OK, but their interiors were unappealing -- a mush of unidentifiable veggies.

Brined in vinegar and drizzled with Halligan's signature tomato-meets-vinegar barbecue sauce, the Carolina pulled pork sandwich was excellent -- tender meat flaunting smoke-kissed, crispy edges served on a toasted bun. Just as good were the hand-cut fries, hot from the fryer and packing plenty of seasoning.

All barbecue sandwiches can be made into a platter with baked beans, slaw and corn bread for $1 more. The corn bread alone -- super-moist and accented with rosemary and crushed red pepper -- is worthy of top menu billing.

A half-pound Batallion Burger ($7.95), also served on a perfectly toasted bun, pulled off the delicate balance of charred crust versus pink, juicy interior. Piled high with bacon, lettuce and tomato and accented by a melted blanket of cheese and hefty swipe of mayo, this burger is not for the faint of appetites.

Halligan doesn't serve dessert now, but our server told us it's in the works. Note to Halligan's dessert list developers: Peanut butter pie would be a lovely addition.

Halligan's one-of-a-kind décor may initially get you fired up. But after you eat here, this tiny hangout's warm, "everyone's welcome" vibe is what'll stick with you most -- well, that or the delicious mess of sauce coating your fingers. dcraig@timesdispatch.com.