Despite those wise financial types who say padding my 401(k) is imperative in today's economy, I don't see a problem with contributing a significant amount of disposable income to eating out.

Like any die-hard foodie, I usually pore over an entree's description before even thinking about the price. If a restaurant (upscale, down-home, whatever) stresses skillful preparation, quality ingredients and appealing presentation, what are a few extra digits between me and the dollar sign?

Well, a lot, actually, no matter how much I don't like to admit it.

If a restaurant strays outside the price point of comparable competitors, the logical side of me can't help but bristle even when the unabashed-lover-of-all-things-gastronomic side couldn't care less.

This is the conundrum I face with Moshi Moshi, Carytown's new upscale Japanese bistro. For the most part, the food is out of this world, but, unfortunately, so are the prices.

Moshi Moshi is the latest venture of Victor Srikusalanukul, chef-owner of Sumo San, Shockoe Bottom's casual sushi spot with a cultlike following.

Moshi Moshi serves some of the wacky sushi creations Sumo San is known for, but Sumo San it is not.

Instead of sake bombs, Moshi Moshi offers more than 15 varieties of premium sakes ($8 to $45). Instead of a mostly sushi menu, Moshi Moshi focuses on high-end entrees, such as grilled lobster in a miso and wasabi pepper sauce ($28) and peppercorn filet mignon with shoestring taro fries ($20).

Moshi Moshi resides in the two-story building that once housed Roly Poly, but, one step inside, you'd never know it. Downstairs, a small fireplace casts an alluring glow across dark wood tables and a small bar. Upstairs, deep yellow walls surround intimately spaced tables accented by minimalist paper lanterns.

It feels somewhat upscale but not at all stuffy. Servers are friendly without being fake and attentive without being annoying.

We started our Friday dinner with Yakusa Wrapping ($12), four oysters wrapped in shiso leaf, tempura-fried and served with cilantro cream sauce.

The oysters were obviously fresh, but, with all the batter and wrapping, getting a prized bite of oyster was difficult. The cilantro cream sauce was pleasantly mild, but, as a whole, the dish lacked pizazz.

Entrees are served with miso soup or salad, and both were standouts. The soup was more complex than most misos, deliciously cloudy with soybean paste and surprisingly robust thanks to fried shallots. The salad's ginger dressing was deeper in flavor than other versions I've had.

Our entrees, Spicy Sour Ebi ($23) and Tuna Tangerine ($22), were outstanding flavorwise but shockingly small. Each came with rice or bread, but, after a few bites, we were already planning a drive-through stop on the way home.

The handful of lightly grilled ebi (shrimp) was combined with Asian mushrooms, broccoli and onions in a gloriously intricate sauce. Spicy, tart, sweet -- I couldn't begin to guess its ingredients. Don't bother asking because Srikusalanukul won't reveal his secrets.

Barely seared and sprinkled with peppercorns, the fan of ruby-red tuna slices was screamingly fresh. Served cold, the tuna paired brilliantly with slightly tart tangerine sauce and cilantro salsa alive with garlic, onion and vinegary energy. Accompanying avocado tempura, however, was disappointingly mushy, making me glad we didn't order the appetizer version ($9).

I returned for lunch to give the sushi a whirl. Regular rolls are reasonably priced -- spicy tuna is $5 for eight pieces -- but some specialty rolls go as high as $15. The www.Roll ($15), for example, was quite good, but the price still stung.

Boiled shrimp, crisp asparagus and avocado were topped with oh-so-fresh white tuna, salmon and tuna, and the same addictive cilantro salsa. A light dusting of tempura crunchies added even more texture to this thrilling edible ride.

As I pondered my Moshi Moshi experiences, two things stuck out: top-notch quality but extremely small portions. Is it worth it? Only time will tell if Moshi Moshi sets the new standard or prices itself out of the market. dcraig@timesdispatch.com.